USA-made Medalist

[Wildfish]

For the fans of the medalists, I was recently given what appears to be a fairly old reel. It came in a Hardy Bros case but is a Medalist. No 1495 made in Akron USA with Diamolite line guard. Any idea what years this would be? Still worth fishing?

 

[Slate_Drake_9]

http://flyanglersonline.com/features/oldflies/part287.php


This should help.

 

[gfen]

Wildfish wrote:
For the fans of the medalists, I was recently given what appears to be a fairly old reel. It came in a Hardy Bros case but is a Medalist. No 1495 made in Akron USA with Diamolite line guard. Any idea what years this would be? Still worth fishing?

Worth depends on condition and vintage. The link he posted will go along way towards identifying the age of the reel.

Fishability? Absolutely. They're indestructable, with one small achilles heel (the frame pawl cup can be bent and kill the reel). Depending on the reel, it may be RHW only, although that can be changed with aftermarket parts.

Chances are, a good cleaning and that reel will give you a lifetime of use.. Or, send it to me. I've got 6 more pending on epay, not counting the 3 I didn't win and the two I did (1498 in the collection!)...

Its a sickness (eg, the "gettin' crafty" thread).

 

[gfen]

Jebus, I got drubbed out of everything since then, including an awesome 1498 with multiplier kit and a 1940 crossover (sculped pillars, plastic latch). Although, in a world of crazy antiques, I did get a great Go-Ite Indiana style reel... Looks like a 6" large arbour.. I hope its light, I want to actually use it.

Anyways, two more handy links for you:
Cleaning classic fly reels.
Care and feeding of the Medalist.

Both of these are really handy reads, the first'll help you get that thing cleaned up, and the second helps you understand tear down, hand reversal, and lubrication.

FWIW, when they say light grease, they mean barely there.. I touch a finger to the grease, then touch the tip to the frame and that's it.. Any grease between the phelonic brake and the drag will cause binding and poor stopping, and it will absolutely leak out there in use.

Plus, heavy grease really mutes the clacking that's part of the charm.

 

[jayL]

What's a reasonable price point for an american made medalist in decent (fully functional, mild to moderate cosmetic wear) condition?

I got my 1492 last year for the price I was willing to pay to have the reel: ~25ish shipped. I have no idea if it was a good deal or not. I'm considering getting a few more for various uses.

 

[gfen]

Figure the last run of American made ones (the frames are marked with the DA code) should, ideally, be only slightly more than what you'll buy a new Chinese one for.

The downside is that you'll have to wade through lots that go for way more than they're worth. If you have self control, you'll do fine. I just watched a bunch on my watch list go for much higher than that number, I've been deleting things off as they crossed my threshold to try and keep track of ones I had an active interest in, y'know?

I'd say $30 would leave me smiling considering a new one is ~$25.

The number goes up the older they get, though. The early '30s 1494 cleared $202 when it closed, but was in great shape. The late '39/40 model I wanted went for just over $50.. Quite a difference.

Model matters, too. My new 1498 was $12, and appears to be from the late '50s (six rivet spool). A similar vintage 1495 in awesome shape went for just under $20, too.

The 1492 hasn't changed much at all since the start, though. The biggest thing has been the colour of the plastic and what the spool cover says from the '50s on. Before that, it was the colour of the plastic and a metal spool cover. Meh.

I'd also be willing to go with the Chinese ones if you just want users. The snobs don't want 'em, so they go for less than what you can buy 'em in the stores for. I've gotten a bunch of 1595 spools for ~$8 shipped, a parts reel (read "mistake") and my hackjob (two spools and a frame, shipped for $18?). They all work the same.

 

[bikerfish]

great reels, I use them almost exclusively anymore. simple and bulletproof. I use my 1495 for steelhead and never felt the need for anything more.
nice updates available at http://onepfoot.com/
jonas at the feathered hook in coburn sells them already pimped out, and they ain't cheap!

 

[jayL]

I have considered the Chinese made medalists, but I enjoy the aesthetics of owning the American ones. I also like that they come with a story, though I have no idea what it is.

 

[gfen]

No argument on that count, my oldest one is a 1950's model and when it first came in, I spent awhile wondering what it was used for.

Then I contacted the ebay seller who dashed my dreams with the curt response of, "Don't know, bought it in a box at a yard sale."

Sad.

 

[jayL]

I think that's kinda cool. It's a permanent memory leak. That information is lost forever. The original owner couldn't possibly identify it, even if you were somehow able to find them.

 

[jdaddy]

I spent awhile wondering what it was used for.

I can answer that.

 

[gfen]

jdaddy wrote:

I spent awhile wondering what it was used for.

I can answer that.

Ever the philosopher, I see. I'll bring you some '60s bass lures next time I see you, you can ruminate on those instead..probably more your speed. I've got the greater half of the original deadly dozen from the '60s in a tackle box somewhere, well used and slightly rusty and stained.. Used right up til I gave up fishing in 1989.

 

[sandfly]

Jebus, I got drubbed out of everything since then, including an awesome 1498 with multiplier kit

Never seen a multiplier medalist before, I don't think they even made one. Like to seen that one.

 

[gfen]

sandfly wrote:
Never seen a multiplier medalist before, I don't think they even made one. Like to seen that one.

Conversion kits from non-Pflueger. There's one active on ebay now, but the multipler I wanted was already done and the original plate was evidently gone.

I missed out because I was reading bedtime stories to my kids, and I didn't get my last click in on time. The pains of parenthood.

 

[gutcutter]

gfen
could your informative threads and sudden interest in the old medalists have anything to do with the e-bay losses?
many who do not register (aka lurkers) watch this site. i am a recovering lurker.
could this be a case of "old medalist reel burning"??
i have a medalist from the '70s (my first reel) and a madison from the '80s. i still use the madison on my bamboo rod from time to time but the reel that i normally use (islander no.1) is lighter and better...

 

[gfen]

gutcutter wrote:
gfen
could your informative threads and sudden interest in the old medalists have anything to do with the e-bay losses?

It could, but I'm pretty sure its coincidence... trust me, I learned all about spot burning in past threads.

I'm not too surprised by them going, these are pretty heavily trafficked still, and lots of people want 'em, especially with glass and cane coming back into vogue. The oldest Medalists, with the round guards, are HIGHLY desired.

The one with the multiplier that I'm still sad about, well, I couldn't be the only guy who saw a poorly listed item and jumped at it.

Oh, and if you want your Medalist to have a good home, I'm your guy!

 

[tobewan77]

let'm spend big money on the older circular guards, i'm in the new generation of reeling with my left hand (if i could only find a 1594 at a yard sale cheap...)

Great reels. I have 2, 1494 - perfect trout reel. It had a mid arbor before mid-arbors were cool ;> Honestly, they don't fit much backing with a DT 5. The 1494 Akron reel i have is great for balancing long bamboo and the wider spool fits much more backing (not that i need it, but helps cut down coiling). I pimped both reels out from one Pfoot and the only thing to look out for is when replacing the Pawl and Spring. Those new springs are stiff and really add a lot of drag to the reel, have to tweak those springs.

 

[gfen]

tobewan77 wrote:
let'm spend big money on the older circular guards, i'm in the new generation of reeling with my left hand (if i could only find a 1594 at a yard sale cheap...)

Always able to put a new plate in there, but you knew that...

I'd really like a pre-drag clicker 1494 with the round guard, but the only way that happens is I literally stumble into one at a yardsale, etc.

Great reels. I have 2, 1494 - perfect trout reel. It had a mid arbor before mid-arbors were cool ;> Honestly, they don't fit much backing with a DT 5.

I was surprised when I put on a DT3 how little backing it took...I'm surprised you get a DT5 on it at all.

The 1494 Akron reel i have is great for balancing long bamboo and the wider spool fits much more backing (not that i need it, but helps cut down coiling). I pimped both reels out from one Pfoot and the only thing to look out for is when replacing the Pawl and Spring. Those new springs are stiff and really add a lot of drag to the reel, have to tweak those springs.

I mostly used my clickers for trout, until recently. I've come to terms with using a drag ONLY to prevent overspool, and not turning it up anymore than that. Beyond that, I've got fingers, and after my project, I've got a place to apply finger drag now, too.

If you're not above cutting, get another cage and hack out the back.. its amazing how easy it is to apply enough drag to stop it in its tracks.. the leather pad is grippy!

As for the 1/2 models, I have a 1594 1/2 that's gone onto doing parts duty, I just don't care for the extra width. Feels funny.

 

[tobewan77]

Even by switching the plate you got a circle line guard in the wrong spot...

I'd cut the 1494 1/2 if i was using it for steelhead or something. But the problem i have with the new spring is that it's too stiff. Would probably break 7x but i hardly ever fight the fish off the reel. I read you can condense or expand the spring to fit how much tension you want on it then bake it at 325 degrees for 15 minutes to set the adjustment.

I like the wider reels than going up a whole size just because then the reel diameter seems too big depending on the rod, just aesthetics and they're all cool.