Strike indicators and hand tied leaders

[Fly_guy]

For years I've been using hand tied leaders due to being more customizable for nymphing or dry fly fishing. I've also mainly used a high sticking nymphing method or small foam indicator when fishing subsurface. Lately though I feel I've been missing strikes with either method. I'm interested in using the new Zealand style wool indicator and was wondering among those of you that use them, how well they work for you? Are they easily adjusted on a knotted leader or would I need to switch to a knotless style leader? Any opinions on the subject would be appreciated.

 

[ryansheehan]

I'm not saying you shouldn't try a different indicator but I highly doubt you're missing fish because of the indicator. When you high stick that is that the most sensitive indicator of all, you! I'm guessing its related to hook set, line management, the list could go on and on. Without seeing it for myself I would be guessing but I don't think the indicator is the issue. Good luck and when it doubt set with conviction.

 

[Fly_guy]

Understood, I am just wondering more about the indicators and missed strikes. Yesterday was fishing and caught one fish but in the next pool after adjusting the indicator for the deeper water a fish took the fly and when the indicator moved I went to set the hook, as I did so the fish fought for a split second and was off the hook. I felt that was due to a later than needed hook set so I wanted to try a more sensitive indicator but didn't know if I need a different leader or not.

 

[ryansheehan]

I'm with you, I was just thinking since you were having the same issue while highsticking that it wasn't related to the indicator. I've never used the NZ system, good luck and report back on how they work.

 

[afishinado]

Fly_guy wrote:
For years I've been using hand tied leaders due to being more customizable for nymphing or dry fly fishing. I've also mainly used a high sticking nymphing method or small foam indicator when fishing subsurface. Lately though I feel I've been missing strikes with either method. I'm interested in using the new Zealand style wool indicator and was wondering among those of you that use them, how well they work for you? Are they easily adjusted on a knotted leader or would I need to switch to a knotless style leader? Any opinions on the subject would be appreciated.

The NZ strike indicator works well and causes little disturbance on the water. You can trim them to any size for ultimate stealth. They may be kind of difficult to adjust when using a knotted leader. I use a hybrid leader I make myself with a furled butt and knotted section up front to my tippet.

Indicators are often necessary for longer casts over multiple current lanes giving you the ability to mend.

The best indicator to use to be successful is................











maybe be none at all.

With a long rod you should be able to control your line and drift while highsticking or tightline nymphing out to 25 or 30' without much difficulty.

The set-up I use most often is a tapered leader with a long tippet section that's about twice the depth of the water. You can tie in a "sighter" to the end of your leader before the tippet. Most sighters are some sort of hi-vis mono. I prefer to roll on a pinch of strike putty on my tippet knot and in three or four points above the tippet for visibility in place of a sighter. I like this system since I can remove the putty and switch to dries without any real change-over.

I find the biggest advantage to nymphing without an indicator is your ability to adjust the depth of your fly by changing your rod angle and/or your cast > no need to move your indicator up or down.

When on the stream, 99% of the time the water in front of us has multiple current speeds and depth changes. No one is changing up their indicator on every cast to a different spot in front of them. As I stated above, without an indicator you can adjust your presentation on each cast to make your flies ride right where they need to be.

Give it a try.

I suggest you read George Daniel's book on nymphing. He gives a great amount of info on rigging and fishing nymphs.

 

[Fly_guy]

Good to know I have never used strike putty. Is that the dynamic nymphing book? If so I've read that and agree that it is a very good book on the subject. The lane I was fishing ran right under a very low hanging evergreen tree that is why I decided to use the indicator. I couldn't really get a good angle for a high stick drift unfortunately. I think like Ryan said I'll just end up trying the nz indicator. If anything I might just use a longer tippet section for adjustability.

 

[allan_s]

I have used the NZ strike indicators for low/clear water and slower moving water that is harder to tighline as effectively.

They work extremely well as they are sensitive and they don't spook trout very easy, whereas getting into range to tightline will send the trout running.

I tie a tippet ring onto the end of my leader and put my NZ indicator right above it. I never adjust my indicator itself, just the amount of tippet under the ring.

 

[CRB]

It sounds like a few micro split shots are needed to keep the line to fly taunt.

 

[Fly_guy]

Hmmm I've also never used tippet rings that's another good thought. I've seen them but never put them to work. As for split shot i typically like to weight the fly with lead wire or a tungsten bead and leave the shot for faster water. Shot just adds to the mess of casting a nymph rig you've already got two flies and then shot just adds another hinge point, I try not to use it unless the flies aren't getting down on their own.

 

[jacob]

I've tried the NZ strike indicator and I find it just takes too much maintenance compared to the ole' foam stick on- the NZ will sink on you after a number off roll casts, which in a small stream situation, sucks. I find you can move a foamy a bunch of times still and give it a pinch and it usually holds where you put it unless you cast really aggressively, and it's not gonna get waterlogged.

If you are fishing small water or spooky trout and worry about the surface disturbance, just rip in in half or even into 1/4 if using a small fly. It really doesn't hit the water hard at all in small sizes and good casts. The oval shaped ones from orvis work pretty well for this.

If your gonna use a foamy it really doesn't need to be big unless heavy fast water is sinking it, and even then, I think using a yarn or other alternative that will float as well as gonna create just as much or more of a disturbance.

I can't speak to the ease of adjustment over knotted leaders, but I imagine you could probably get a foamy to slip over a knot or two before it stops sticking, although I've never been able to pass one over a tippet ring. PS I love tippet rings and use them always- even then the foamy is my answer. I either put the indicator above or below my tippet ring depending on the minimum and maximum depth I'm gonna be fishing for a while- if u encounter water deeper or shallower than that, adjust the tippet (rare occasion if you know the water you are fishing). The foam strike indicator (usually cut down in 1/2 or 1/4) has always been a more practical option for me- less fussing around and trying to keep yarn floating and they aren't too expensive. $5-$10 a year isn't too outrageous for the convenience of it, if you need an indicator. I still prefer to nymph without one, but that just isn't practical a lot of times, at least for me.

I must note, if I was overhead casting more often than roll casting, I might prefer the NZ, if only for it's lack of either crimping your leader (thingamajobber) or being a pain to get off (stick on foamy in cold conditions). This is conjecture since I didn't give the NZs much of a chance past a weekend of using them till they sunk and inevitably switching back to the foamy. I would argue as long as it isn't landing harder than an NZ, then why not?

That's just me but give it a try if ya gotta use one! Hope that helps.