Started assembling my "roof top" Rod Locker!

[Steeltrap]

I'll post some pics (when I take them) of my roof top\truck bed\UTV rod locker. I'm disabled and jump on my UTV to get me from point A to Point B on any given stream....(well, any stream that is navigable using a UTV). Of course, I hate to disassemble my setup when going from A B, and there's always that chance of snagging my rod on a tree or brush .....and we all know how that would end up.

So...following some direction from this article https://www.gameandfishmag.com/editorial/diy-rooftop-rod-locker-in-8-steps/393281 and using some existing "stuff" I had...plus buying some PVC stuff from the local hardware store, I'm making a two rod holder that I'll be able to use in my pickup, UTV, or whatever has a roof rack or mounting point....and I'm doing it for under $50.

I understand that a business has to make a profit. But I'm a bit perplexed that $450 is required to get a two rod...Rod Locker. Anyway, I'll post some pics and progress. My hardware store was out of 1.5" PVC in the ten foot length I wanted. The link shows them using 2" PVC, but IMHO, the 1.5" will work just fine.

 

[Facemelted]

Anxious to see some pics. I'm thinking about doing this myself and need some inspiration.

 

[Steeltrap]

Well, here's a few with some descriptions:

Here's the box I started with. I'd like to tell you where I got it ....but I have no idea! The box has a to latch design to keep it closed. I think a solid type of closure is key to prevent the rod\reel from bouncing it loose and causing the rod\reel to come out.

Here's a pic from the bottom of the PVC pieces needed to "screw" to the box holes I cut. Now, I know I don't have a pic of that holes, but I cut them with a Dremel using a "side cut" tool I first traced the diameter with a pencil and just followed the line. Very easy ...and no "special" hole saw size.

This pic shows the (far size tube) the PVC connector needed to connect the actual 10' PVC tube to the PVC pipe connectors. Now....I doubt you can see it but I had to cut a "washer" or "spacer" to fill the gap between the box and the pipe connectors. Those connectors have a tapered thread and the "nuts" (inside) will never screw on tight enough to make a tight fit. To make the spacer, I just cut a piece of PVC pipe, about 1/4", filed the ends so they are all the same thickness, then (Important part) just cut one side of them so they could expand and fit over the connector threads. Tightened up the box very nice!!

Here's a pic of what I used....well, sort of....but it gives you the idea. I'll take photos when I get it back apart (before final assembly)

This pic shows (far side) how the 10' PVC pipe will connect. I don't have 'em yet, so the piece you see is a salt-water beach rod holder I made.

Here's the inside of the "box" that shows the PVC connector screwed on. When final assembly happens I plan on using PVC glue so these don't vibrate loose. The rod(s) will go in here and hang as you see. I plan on gluing on some foam to keep the reels from bouncing around during travel.

Here's a pic of what I'm going to use on the ends of the PVC pipes. I considered using an end cap and gluing those on, but I like the idea of being able to remove 'em for "whatever" purposes may be needed.

 

[hooker-of-men]

I've mentioned this before, but worth bringing up again: the white plumbing male to female threaded connection won't cinch down to flush, but the grey electrical/conduit ones will:

Hopefully can save someone else the considerable time I wasted...

 

[JimNovo]

This looks awesome!!!

 

[wildtrout2]

Well, here's a few with some descriptions:

Here's the box I started with. I'd like to tell you where I got it ....but I have no idea! The box has a to latch design to keep it closed. I think a solid type of closure is key to prevent the rod\reel from bouncing it loose and causing the rod\reel to come out.

Here's a pic from the bottom of the PVC pieces needed to "screw" to the box holes I cut. Now, I know I don't have a pic of that holes, but I cut them with a Dremel using a "side cut" tool I first traced the diameter with a pencil and just followed the line. Very easy ...and no "special" hole saw size.

This pic shows the (far size tube) the PVC connector needed to connect the actual 10' PVC tube to the PVC pipe connectors. Now....I doubt you can see it but I had to cut a "washer" or "spacer" to fill the gap between the box and the pipe connectors. Those connectors have a tapered thread and the "nuts" (inside) will never screw on tight enough to make a tight fit. To make the spacer, I just cut a piece of PVC pipe, about 1/4", filed the ends so they are all the same thickness, then (Important part) just cut one side of them so they could expand and fit over the connector threads. Tightened up the box very nice!!

Here's a pic of what I used....well, sort of....but it gives you the idea. I'll take photos when I get it back apart (before final assembly)

This pic shows (far side) how the 10' PVC pipe will connect. I don't have 'em yet, so the piece you see is a salt-water beach rod holder I made.

Here's the inside of the "box" that shows the PVC connector screwed on. When final assembly happens I plan on using PVC glue so these don't vibrate loose. The rod(s) will go in here and hang as you see. I plan on gluing on some foam to keep the reels from bouncing around during travel.

Here's a pic of what I'm going to use on the ends of the PVC pipes. I considered using an end cap and gluing those on, but I like the idea of being able to remove 'em for "whatever" purposes may be needed.

Very clever!

 

[Steeltrap]

I've mentioned this before, but worth bringing up again: the white plumbing male to female threaded connection won't cinch down to flush, but the grey electrical/conduit ones will:

View attachment 1641228234View attachment 1641228235
Hopefully can save someone else the considerable time I wasted...

Well....except I made a "spacer" out of a cut piece of the 1.5" PVC pipe that allows the "plumbing" PVC connector to do just that. It's pretty easy. Just cut a piece of 1.5" PVC (or whatever size PVC you happen to use) and "parallel up" the entire diameter using just a file. I'll post a pic when I undo the parts I've assembled. I think the "plumber" connector will be strong as any other because the thread is a tapered "pipe type"....Just as strong as any other.

 

[hooker-of-men]

Well....except I made a "spacer" out of a cut piece of the 1.5" PVC pipe that allows the "plumbing" PVC connector to do just that. It's pretty easy. Just cut a piece of 1.5" PVC (or whatever size PVC you happen to use) and "parallel up" the entire diameter using just a file. I'll post a pic when I undo the parts I've assembled. I think the "plumber" connector will be strong as any other because the thread is a tapered "pipe type"....Just as strong as any other.

Oh, I saw! A great idea. I just meant I didn't have that great idea when I built mine. Spent way too much time wandering around Lowe's, so I wanted to mention there is another readymade solution

 

[Kyle]

great idea! thats an awesome DIY project and you saved alot of money doing it. nice job.

 

[Steeltrap]

Here's a pic of the "Dremel hole" that I made for the PVC threaded piece to fit.

And here's the PVC "spacer" that I made in order for the threaded connector to be able to tighten down to the box. As you can see the spacer is about 1/2" wide, and then when I cut it, it will allow the space to fit over the thread. Also, notice I line up the "cut" with that little "bump" thing on the PVC connector.

 

[flyguyfishing]

That is awesome. Great job. I love Macguyvering stuff like that.

How will you secure it to roof top? Will it keep an honest person honest?

 

[Steeltrap]

That is awesome. Great job. I love Macguyvering stuff like that.

How will you secure it to roof top? Will it keep an honest person honest?

I'm not concerned about theft. Or I should say if somebody wants to steal this "contraption" there won't be any rods\reels in it. I want it to get from point "A" to point "B". I'm disabled and for me to get around I have a highly modified electric EZ-GO cart. This will (via U-Bolts) get attached to the roof of my cart. I have some thoughts on the "how too" but I'll show that later.

Here's a pic of my cart as I went zooming by one of my trail cam's this year.....and I threw in the second pic to show my frustration of how close (several times) I came to having a chance of nailing another coyote!!

 

[Steeltrap]

So, here's a few updates on my rod carrier. In addition to finally gluing the pipes to the "Box" I made two of these mounts\stablizers. Snugging them up so they won't slide back and fourth was done using a piece of bike tube, and then different size washers on the "clamp" material\strip.

Currently in the process of mounting this to the roof top of my cart. I will bolt it to that as it will be on the top of my P\U and it's gotta stand 70mph trips on the road.

 

[Steeltrap]

FWIW, I mounted this on the roof of my highly modified EZ-GO. I tossed in a fly rod and went for a ride.

I think this will work out very well and prevent me from either taking the rod down in between going to spots, or putting the rod "out there" in danger of grabbing a tree limb and snapping off.

Next is to just paint the white PVC tubes. I have some Rustoleum camo that should work well!!

I'll post a pic when I get a chance!

 

[krayfish2]

Nice work!

 

[Steeltrap]

I have to sand and paint these.....I don't like the white PVC. But here's a pic of the unit mounted to the top of my electric cart.