Question for the glass-holes on here

The_Sasquatch

The_Sasquatch

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I picked up a couple of old South Bends on Ebay this week. An 8' South Bend Classic I, which I like. I'm not sure what line weight it was balanced for as either it's not marked or the markings have worn off (no letter codes, nothing). I tried it w/ 5wt line, and I liked how that felt.

The other rod, a 8'6" White Wizard, is listed as a 6wt. It casts 6wt like a champion. My issue is this. This rod is HEAVY. I think it's the metal used at the furrule. Both the male and female parts have metal around them. I'm having some trouble balancing it w/ a reel. The first reel I tried was a Cortland 444 multiplier. Not a light reel, but the rod weight still threw it out of balance. The second reel I put on is an Eagle Claw Granger 780. A little better. It balances about an inch above the cork. The Cortland balanced closer to two inches.

I know that it's not that big of a deal. It's about how it feels when I'm casting. The thing is, it does feel a bit top heavy to me. Any thoughts? I was reading up on adding weight to reels this weekend. Lots of various opinions out there. Anyone here with some real live experience?
 
The_Sasquatch wrote:
I picked up a couple of old South Bends on Ebay this week. An 8' South Bend Classic I, which I like. I'm not sure what line weight it was balanced for as either it's not marked or the markings have worn off (no letter codes, nothing). I tried it w/ 5wt line, and I liked how that felt.

The other rod, a 8'6" White Wizard, is listed as a 6wt. It casts 6wt like a champion. My issue is this. This rod is HEAVY. I think it's the metal used at the furrule. Both the male and female parts have metal around them. I'm having some trouble balancing it w/ a reel. The first reel I tried was a Cortland 444 multiplier. Not a light reel, but the rod weight still threw it out of balance. The second reel I put on is an Eagle Claw Granger 780. A little better. It balances about an inch above the cork. The Cortland balanced closer to two inches.

I know that it's not that big of a deal. It's about how it feels when I'm casting. The thing is, it does feel a bit top heavy to me. Any thoughts? I was reading up on adding weight to reels this weekend. Lots of various opinions out there. Anyone here with some real live experience?
Click to expand...

It is a big deal, to me anyway. I absolutely hate fishing with a tip heavy rod (a butt heavy one is no fun either).

Many of the older rods especially the boo and glass ones are way too heavy to be balanced by the newer, lighter reels.

Anyway, I try to choose a reel the balances the rod in my hand at the point where I normally grip it. If a cannot find a reel that balances out the rod, I usually add some weight to the reel spool. I've found the best way to add weight is to use some lead tape and wrap in around the spool. Lead tape can be found in any golf pro shop. The backing is wound on over the weight.
 
Yeah that's why I was surprised that the Cortland 444 didn't balance it. It's neither modern nor light! Maybe a larger Medalist, but the one I have (1494AK) didn't balance it.

I thought about the lead tape. Some opinions were very much against this idea, but others championed it. I'd rather use the Cortland on it as I have multiple spools for the reel and I use my Eagle Claw for my 8wt. I'm not really in the market for a new reel for my 8wt rod, so using it for a 6wt isn't ideal. If you haven't had any negative personal experiences w/ this solution, I'd definitely be open to trying it. I'm not sure I understood the arguments against wrapping the spool.
 
I have an old Heddon that is way too tip heavy. I've tried adding weight - then the rod isn't fun to fish.
On another site, a gentleman there permanently splices the glass, removing the old metal ferrule, and places two new spigot ferrules, thereby making it a three-piece. I may try that when I get the time.
 
Yeah, add weight till it balances. It will feel MUCH better in your hand.

Large arbors in general are heavier than their standard arbor kin. You can also use a bigger reel, for instance, one meant for a 7 wt on a 4 wt. Looks a little funky but it gets the job done. Nevermind that Becker will call you a dirty pinner if you stick an oversized large arbor on there. :)

Or go with lead tape and things like that.

Just keep in mind the basement test requires that the rod be strung with fly line off the tip laying on the ground. Surprising how much the weight of fly line can change the balance, but keep in mind it's pulling on the tip and you have the lever effect. I personally like the balance point to be near the front of the grip. Just ahead of my hand. If it's on the blank near the end of the grip that's ok for me, just not way up the blank.

Some like the balance point right at the hand, they want to be holding the natural fulcrum. It's just personal preference. But weight balance drastically changes the behavior of any rod.
 
I am in the opposite camp. It just isn't a problem for me. I currently own 7 5wt rods from 6' 0" to 9' 0". I have 2 spools with 5wt line. If a tweak a spool to balance rod x, what do I do for rods y and z?

Only you can decide if it bothers you enough to take action. If so, Afish's suggestion is better than anything I could come up with.
 

The metal ferrules add less weight than you think; its all in the fact that its an 8'6" rod from the '60s. They're all heavy. Its the nature of the beast.

Lead tape/line around the spool works, and has the unintended consequence of increasing drag weight by simply increasing the mass a fish has to pull against.

Medalists will also allow you to pull the spool cap and drop shot inside of it. Same drag consequence, however.

Finally, old brass reels from the dawn of time weigh more than a modern steel or aluminum reel.
 
Okay the drag issue was what was being discussed as a negative, but gfen stated it more clearly. I remember reading in the past how you dropped shot inside too. Forgot how that was done, so I'll check it out when I get home.
 
I'm having the same issue with a Fenwick of mine. I was really suprised a 8/9 wt battenkill multiplier didn't balance it.

The custom is a real beauty but I think it's going to be far to heavy to fish with practically and effectively on long trips.
 
That's a one piece, right Sal? You might have better luck w/ a Medalist. I have no problem balancing my Fenwick.
 
No no. My one piece 6' 6wt Fenwick balances fine with a 5/6 battenkill disc drag. It's the 9'6" 9wt 2pc Fenwick that has the issues
 
Another option to add weight is to wrap lead core line under the backing. I have a Grey's Streamflex 11' 3 wt and was unable to add enough lead tape to achieve the desired balance. You will want to make sure the lead core is colorfast to prevent staining your fly line. I opted for the Cabelas brand.
 
Regarding the 8'-6" rod, my question is:

What will you use this rod for? If the answer is streamer fishing for trout or bass then the added weight attached at the reel which will affect the drag may not matter, as you will be fishing with stronger tippet.

Am I right, or just tired and my thoughts muddled?
 
I plan on using it more for warm water purposes.
 
Then in my opinion you should be OK. I caught how many largemouth and smallmouth bass in my lifetime? 5,000? 10,000? Heck I don't know, in 45 plus years fishing for them.

But this much I do know: they are not generally leader shy. And they don't make reel-screaming runs. They are welter weight bulldogs - use strong tippet and duke it out with them.
 
Just curious about the Medalist drag issue. If the added weight is in the center of the spool under the cap, I don't see how it would increase the drag effect noticeably. It's near the center of the revolving mass. Think of the adult on the playground merry go round. The little kid can easily spin it if the adult is in the center.
 
gfen wrote:

The metal ferrules add less weight than you think; its all in the fact that its an 8'6" rod from the '60s. They're all heavy. Its the nature of the beast.

Lead tape/line around the spool works, and has the unintended consequence of increasing drag weight by simply increasing the mass a fish has to pull against.

Medalists will also allow you to pull the spool cap and drop shot inside of it. Same drag consequence, however.

Finally, old brass reels from the dawn of time weigh more than a modern steel or aluminum reel.
Click to expand...

Sweet Jebus!....we're talking trout here...right...not Marlin or Tarpon.

Choose a reel that's close to the proper weight and add a little weight to balance. Not a big deal at all. Been there / done that....many times.
 

No no. My one piece 6' 6wt Fenwick balances fine with a 5/6 battenkill disc drag. [color=CC0000]It's the 9'6" 9wt 2pc Fenwick that has the issues

[/color]
Posted on: Yesterday 12:57



Have you tried a Medalist 1496 1/2 or a 1498. You could also look into an Ocean City SportKing or No. 36, nice big heavy reels.
 
Hey good tip on the Ocean City! I got one of those beasts laying around. I should give that a try.
 
afishinado wrote:
gfen wrote:
Lead tape/line around the spool works, and has the unintended consequence of increasing drag weight by simply increasing the mass a fish has to pull against.
Click to expand...

Sweet Jebus!....we're talking trout here...right...not Marlin or Tarpon.

Choose a reel that's close to the proper weight and add a little weight to balance. Not a big deal at all. Been there / done that....many times.
Click to expand...

Hence the words "unintended consequence." Perhaps "repercussion" fits the definition of our mutually agreed negative result better than "unintended consequence?" I'm willing to work with you.

 
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