Parachute hackle?

[Sylvaneous]

I tied some sulfur parachutes for the 1st time in a while. I got some sz 16 Whiting 100s dyed yellow on sale . In both performance and appearance, it seemed like a sz 14 would work& look better. Can anyone share? I never used a pre sized hackle pack. What I see as the right size might not be the industry standard.

 

[redietz]

I tied some sulfur parachutes for the 1st time in a while. I got some sz 16 Whiting 100s dyed yellow on sale . In both performance and appearance, it seemed like a sz 14 would work& look better. Can anyone share? I never used a pre sized hackle pack. What I see as the right size might not be the industry standard.

Thoughts on hackle size on parachutes are all over the place. Some people recommend using a size larger (14 hackle on 16 flies) and others recommend using one size smaller. To some extent, it depends on where you place the post. If you believe the hackle should reach about to the back of hook, then the further back you place the post, the smaller the hackle can be. For example, most of the parachute that I tie are ant patterns. If I place the post in the thorax, I'll use a larger hackle than when I place the post in the waist.

Lots of opinions on this. YMMV.

 

[PennKev]

I tied some sulfur parachutes for the 1st time in a while. I got some sz 16 Whiting 100s dyed yellow on sale . In both performance and appearance, it seemed like a sz 14 would work& look better. Can anyone share? I never used a pre sized hackle pack. What I see as the right size might not be the industry standard.

There are no true standards as to what a size 16 hook is, let alone what a size 16 hackle is. The whiting 100 packs are a convenience, but you need to decide if the size marked on the package is correct for your uses. This possibility of not getting what you need is the trade off in cost savings over purchasing hackle on the skin which usually has at least a few feathers of the size you decide are correct. As with any other hackle, it's best to examine the 100 packs before you purchase so that you can determine true size.

 

[Steeltrap]

FWIW, I've always had some difficulty tying parachute hackles. Then I purchased a set of the Dr. Slick rotary hackle pliers and it makes spinning on a parachute hackle much easier. (MHO)

https://www.avidmax.com/dr-slick-rotary-hackle-plier/?sku=220-1-965-01425

 

[redietz]

I purchased a set of the Dr. Slick rotary hackle pliers and it makes spinning on a parachute hackle much easier. (MHO)

I agree. If you must use hackle pliers on a parachute, rotary pliers are the way to go. If you can avoid the pliers altogether, though, that's even easier.

 

[Tigereye]

If you rotate the hook in the vice so that the parachute is parallel to the floor( horizontal) you can wrap the hackle much easier.

 

[redietz]

If you rotate the hook in the vice so that the parachute is parallel to the floor( horizontal) you can wrap the hackle much easier.

That depends on how stiff your post is. I find it almost impossible on flies size 18 or below.

 

[Tigereye]

Not sure how to take you first sentence? :>)

But, i always put a touch of head cement on post wraps and give it a minute or two to dry. It stiffens the post up a bit. May depend on post material too. I've been using hi viz.

I have seen gallows advertised for tying posts. That may help some folks. I have never used one in all honesty, it looks like it would help.

 

[dryflyguy]

I wouldn't worry about the difference between a #14 and #16 hackle. The look is negligible IMO.
If your concerned about flotation, make more wraps.

I don't tie parachutes much.
But when I do, I use smaller size hackles anyway - just like I do with my regular dries

 

[afishinado]

That depends on how stiff your post is. I find it almost impossible on flies size 18 or below.

I tie parachutes, both big and small all the time.

Wrapping hackle on the post is much easier when the post is oriented parallel to the vise head.

I tie in the tail, post and body and finish the fly all the way the eye, whip finish and cut the thread tag.

I then rotate the fly 90* and orient the post parallel to the vise head (I prefer the fly rotated with the hook eye up so I can use the vise to rest my hand on when aligning the hackle feather).

I start my thread on the post the same as I would around the hook shank when starting a fly, and wind the thread up the post as far as I want the hackle to begin (I use fine thread for wrapping hackle for a neater job).

As mentioned above, you can put a little head cement on the base of the post to stiffen it up if necessary, but be sure make enough wraps on the post to lay down a good stiff base on the post for wrapping the hackle.

I then take my hackle feather stem, which is stripped of unwanted hackle fibers and wrap it to the post leaving a little extra stem exposed which allows me to orient the hackle properly. The tied in hackle stem in itself will add to the stiffness of the post for wrapping the hackle.

I begin to wrap the hackle down towards the base and tie off the hackle feather with a few thread wraps.

Sometimes I apply a little head cement to the thread, whip finish and cut off the tag of thread and trim off the end of the hackle feather.

Done!

I learned this method from a commercial tyer on a trip out-west back in the 80's and it has worked well for me for decades of tying parachute flies. I tie a lot of them since it's my favorite tie for most mayfly patterns.

Try it. With a little practice you will be able to tie parachutes well without any hassles or buying and things like a gallows tool or rotating hackle pliers.

 

[redietz]

I do all of that on larger flies, but on smaller ones, the post bends (even when stiffened with glue) and and the thread slips off. I find it much easier to simply wrap the hackle with the hook in its normal orientation.

I don't find parachutes difficult to tie at all.

 

[afishinado]

I do all of that on larger flies, but on smaller ones, the post bends (even when stiffened with glue) and and the thread slips off. I find it much easier to simply wrap the hackle with the hook in its normal orientation.

I don't find parachutes difficult to tie at all.

The post isn't any stiffer in it's "normal orientation", but do whatever works for you.

 

[redietz]

The post isn't any stiffer in it's "normal orientation", but do whatever works for you.

No, but the thread and the weight of the bobbin rest on the hook, not the post.

 

[Sylvaneous]

If you rotate the hook in the vice so that the parachute is parallel to the floor( horizontal) you can wrap the hackle much easier.

I don't have any problem with that. I'm looking at fly performance on the water: stability. I have some issues with parachutes landing sideways, especially if I angle or side-arm the cast. I used to use CDC, but it's really hard to see that gray. I use snow shoe foot now. The puffier stuff helps it fall and land right. It's easier to wrap conventionally, but I don't have any real problem wrapping parachute style hackle.

 

[Tigereye]

I find if my flies are landing improperly it's usually a proportion issue. In the case of parachutes, the hackle is too short, the post too high or perhaps an imbalance in the body/ tail

 

[afishinado]

I find if my flies are landing improperly it's usually a proportion issue. In the case of parachutes, the hackle is too short, the post too high or perhaps an imbalance in the body/ tail

Agreed ^. I generally use hackle for parachute tied flies one size longer than I would when tying Catskill type flies, so I would choose a size12 hackle for a size 14 parachute fly. Also as written above, pay attention to the height of the post; it should be no longer than the body of the fly +/-. Third, tying a splayed out tail helps with the stability of the fly and allows it to land and ride on the water properly.

 

[DGC]

Adding to the suggestions in #15 and #16, a standard wire vs. a light wire hook might help as well.