Parachute Hackle Size

S

Sylvaneous

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I find that hackle size (and this is 'officially' sized hackle) that corresponds with the hook size makes for parachute flies that land on their side. I try to keep the wing post made out of light material, like sparse snow shoe hare or CDC instead of a feather or calf tail. Some commercially tied parachutes have really short wing posts, but I want a respectable wing profile. I thought using bigger hackle might help. I haven't played with it yet, except that I tie a parachute-style spinner, but it has very little wing post and a very long hackle.
What is your experience?
Syl
 
I tie normal sized wings but use larger hackle, almost exclusively saddle or 100 pack hackle.

I only use synthetic material that matches the color of the natural for a wing post but have no problems being able to see it or how it lands.
 
I find that hackle size (and this is 'officially' sized hackle) that corresponds with the hook size makes for parachute flies that land on their side. I try to keep the wing post made out of light material, like sparse snow shoe hare or CDC instead of a feather or calf tail. Some commercially tied parachutes have really short wing posts, but I want a respectable wing profile. I thought using bigger hackle might help. I haven't played with it yet, except that I tie a parachute-style spinner, but it has very little wing post and a very long hackle.
What is your experience?
Syl
When tying parachute style flies I go one size up on the hackle, so for example I'll use a size 14 length hackle for a size 16 fly. I most often use poly yarn for my wing posts. It is very visible on the water, lightweight, it's pretty water resistant and the flies land right-side-up on the water. Using poly yarn for your post may help to keep your flies upright. One bonus of using PY posts for parachutes is you can keep it long and trim it at the end making for an easier to tie. The final step is to comb out the poly yarn post to make it "fluffy" (like a parachute) before trimming.

I also like to tie parachute hackle spinners where the hackle represents the splayed wings. For spinners I use even longer hackle to represent the wings. Remember the wings of an insect are often close to the length of the body. I often clip the hackle fore and aft so the hackle wings only extend 90* from the body. I also trim the post short leaving just enough post to stick up and be visible on the water (to me not the fish). Sometimes I'll even use orange or chartreuse poly yarn for the post for even greater visibility. HTH
 
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I believe there are a number of variables that affect whether your parachute patterns ride upright or not. Hackle size is just one of the variables.

The tails on your flies are one of the variables, including the quality (stiffness, for example) of the material, their length, and degree of splay.

The material you use for your post Is also a variable. Obviously, it’s weight and length are important, but that’s related to how the tails are constructed, the fly’s body length, hackle length, etc.

How high you tie your hackle on the post is another variable, as is the density of the barbules and the number of hackle wraps that are used. The lower to the hook shank is wrapped, and the lesser number of wraps that are used (think weight) the more stable the fly will ride, relative to the overall fly construction.

The lower the fly’s center of gravity to the water’s surface, the more stable (upright) it will be. I tie most of my parachute patterns using Bett’s Z-Lon (or crinkled Z-Lon). I begin by wrapping it around the hook shank from the bottom up and secure it with thread wraps on top of the hook shank. This little bit of added weight below the hook shank, rather than tying it entirely on top of the hook shank, also contributes to keeping the fly upright.

I tie parachutes with both oversized as well as undersized hackle, but mostly use undersized hackle and I never have issues with them tipping over or on their sides.
 
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I'm usually using a size larger hackle for my parachute flies. Parachute style dries are my most productive dry flies it seems.
 
I like McFlylon for wing posts because you get a lot of bang for the buck and use white almost exclusively because of my aging eyes.

Also read/heard a tier likes his hackle to extend to the shank of the hook and shiny side down. I assume he's more concerned about hackle length at the rear of the fly than at the hook eye.
 
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I have never experienced the issue you are addressing here.
 
Except for some comparaduns, I tie all my mayfly patterns as parachutes. I also tie a lot of Klinkhammer flies parachute style. I use slightly larger hackles and trim any fibers that may hang lower than the hook shank on the mayfly patterns. For the post, I have been using Parapost for a long time. It is like Antron or Z-Lon but is treated with water repellent and comes in several colors. The only place I know that sells it is Feather-Craft in St. Louis. When fishing parachutes, it is important to stop your fly a little sooner than a Catskills style dry to allow it to flutter to the water to stand upright.
 
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In the last 5 years I’ve replaced much of my fly tying gear. I did not go full out, but tried to not pick out my pieces by low price. I started noting better results and less frustration. I was staying at the vice much longer at each sitting. Now the vast majority of flies that I use while fishing are tied by me. I occasionally gift them and the recipients fish them. But with every fly that I tie I see things that need improvement.

Fly tying/fishing is a journey. Mine started somewhere around 1975 and continues. Not a night goes by that there aren’t visions of trout water in my head before I sleep.

Rising fish and tight lines to all.
 
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