midgi

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buckbarrett

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May 29, 2007
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I find better info here than searching around the internet. So, I'm asking for info on fishing and tying midges, which I have never done, and it seems to be a good time of the year to try them. What colors, best patterns, hook size,? etc
 
Dry:
Griffith's gnat sz. 18-22
Cream generic adult dry. Use cdc or hackle. sz 20-28
Black generic adult dry. Use cdc or hackle. sz 20-28
Grizzley/Gray generic adult dry. Use cdc or hackle. sz 20-28
Black and white spent wing "spinners" sz 18-28

Subsurface:
Zebra midge sz 18-22
Red zebra midge sz 18-22
Miracle Midge sz 18-28 (various colors)
Al's rat sz 20.

I don't carry even half of that selection, but in a perfect world, that's it.

Google provides you with any patterns in case you're wondering.

Just look for trout rising to no-see-ums and be observant of their possible coloration. Light, light tippets and a delicate presentation are a must.

During the sun warmed afternoon on a winter's day, especially when trout are suspended, cruising, or just generally acting weird, I found you can't beat a zebra or miracle midge fished about a foot and a half below an (small) indicator.
 
I like to tie a fly I call a "floss midge". It's just a strand of red floss doubled over so that it runs along the shank of the hook. Tie it in at the eye of the hook and clip it off right at the bend. Then put a few winds of peacock herl at the front. I tie it on a size 18 and it makes for a small fly on a bigger hook.

I like that fly tied in at the bend of a smaller midge like an ICSI or a griffith's gnat. Makes for a nice combo.

Any fly you tie smaller than a 20 can just be some fuzz on a hook. I'll build up a body of thread in whatever color I like and then put some snowshoe rabbit's foot at the head to keep it in the surface. I think it's conterproductive to try to be fancy with midges.

I'm fond of this book:
http://www.amazon.com/Midge-Magic-Don-Holbrook/dp/0811709965/ref=pd_sim_b_2_img/103-6376136-1398222?ie=UTF8&qid=1190501548&sr=8-1
 
Pad,

I'm having trouble picturing you floss midge. Do you tie the floss in, wind the thread to the bend, wind the floss to the bend, tie in the floss, then wind the thread back up the shank? Does the thread act as ribbing, as in a zebra midge?
 
Jayl
Thanks for the info, I understand the sizes , but have not fished the midges at all, I dont know the styles that you mentioned, but I see that they are small!
 
Padraic thanks for the info, I'm good at fuzz on the hook
 
Buck,

For the dries, i just use a miniature mayfly dun style pattern. A zebra midge is just a thread body ribbed with some fine wire and a beadhead, while a miracle midge does away with the bead and adds a touch of dubbing. Al's rat is a miracle midge without ribbing.

If you search on google for any of the patterns you should get a recipe, or at least a picture of each one.
 
I'm partial to a couple of my own patterns. I've been fishing them with good success over the last 7-8 years. One I dubbed the "Wissahickon Midge" you should be able to google tying instructions on the web. The other I dubbed the Ridley Creek Fuzz Ball. I tie them on TMC 2488, size 20 to 28. They're dry flies but will work as subsurface pattern. Another pattern I've adapted to midge fishing is the Usual. I tie it on a SE dry fly hook in size 20 and 22. Use snowshoe for the wing and tail but wrap a CDC feather for the body.
For the W M I wrap a black and red brown CDC feather for the body with some stripped white CDC barbules for the wing.
RCFB has a trailing shuck and body of Rat Tail, with a hair thin red wire for the rib, and a wing of white CDC barbules tied in like the Elk Hair on an Elk Hair Caddis. Thread color determines the body color, black, white and red seem to work best.
For the Usual, olive, grey and tan seem to work the best.
 
These are the flies I tie to match midges:

Hook: TMC 2488 (size #20-30)
The 2488 hook is actually a fine-wired, straight eyed, curved scud/pupa hook, with a 2x wide gap that seems to stick the fish better, and gives the fly a more realistic curved body shape.

Colors: Cream, Olive, Brown, Gray, Black, Red (Red I use thread or an ultra wire body - pupa only)

Body: Uni Thread (6/0 or 8/0) in above colors.

Ribbing: Fine Ultra Wire – black, copper, silver, gold, or a contrasting thread color.
I rib most of the bodies since midges usually have noticeable segmentation. Study the insects when you capture them.


With this same thread body I tie two pupa and two adult versions:

Pupa: w/ 1.5mm bead and darker dubbed thorax (zebra midge version), or no bead, just darker dubbing for the thorax (like Al’s rat). The bead head sinks deeper and rides hook point up, while the dubbed head hangs in/under the film.

Adult: CDC tied down-wing, or CDC tied spent spinner style (tied in figure 8 perpendicular to the body and lightly dubbed over).

Add in a Griffith’s Knat to your midge assortment and you will be able to cover most midge hatches. I also tie a stripped hackle stem body version that gives a segmented look (like a Quill Gordon) that works well for midges, but a thread body is usually all that needed.

When I see rises to midges, I try to scoop up a sample from the stream and match the size and color as closely as possible. Don’t forget about fishing the pupa in or under the film as well as or instead of the adult. Sometimes the pupa version works where the adult fails. You also can try a tandem of the two.

I use floatant on the leader and tippet up to a foot from the fly, and I sometimes put a pinch of strike putty on the tippet knot above these flies to help track the leader and tippet on the water. Also I use mono and not flouro tippet to float the adult version of these flies. I go down to 7x for only the smallest flies and under the toughest conditions.

When I become tired of fishing nymphs in the fall and winter, I actually look forward to the challenge of rising fish during a midge hatch. I would say if I have a reasonably similar fly to match the midge hatch, and am not catching fish, the main reason is usually poor presentation – drag on the fly, or spooking the fish with my cast. IMO, many times matching the hatch is far easier than fishing the hatch. Good luck.
 
Check the library for Ed Kochs book.
Forgot the name but he had good ideas.
You can get a lot of milage with the Letort fur bodied ant in different colors and sizes from 22 to 32.
 
Pete wrote: "Check the library for Ed Kochs book.
Forgot the name but he had good ideas."


Pete,

"Midge Magic" is the book by Ed Koch. Good book explaining patterns and methods of midge fishing with some good pics of midge species found in PA. Ed Koch's home waters are in South Central PA specifically the Yellow Breeches.
 
A real simple midge pattern that I use is called a sewer fly.
It's just a black thread body, with a small tuft of gray poly for a wing - I tie it in sizes #20 thru #28.
I believe it imitates a black midge, but I don't why it's called a sewer fly.
A buddy of mine showed it to me a few years ago - I think he first got them at flyfishers paradise in state college.
This fly works well in spring creek when the fish are midging there
 
Dyang! Thats small. I'm guess I'm not that well versed and I dont understand the wing pattern you described because you thought I knew what I was doing. I have only used feathers and dont know this new fangled "poly" item you crazy kids are talking about these days.
Can you explain please?
 
Poly is just a plasticy yarn, basically.

http://tinyurl.com/28zorz

It makes great midge and spinner wings. Also, since it's relatively sturdy, makes good parachute posts.
 
Buck,

I've been tying with poly so long, that I just assumed everyone knows what it is. It's always been used for most of my spinner wings.
For the sewer fly, just tie in a tiny little post - not divided - and clip it to a nice looking length.
 
When tying Midge more is not better. The smallest hook I tie anymore is a size 24. If I need a smaller midge which I do a lot I’ll tie a 24 or 20 short. If I could only have two midges it would be an ICSI and Griffin’s Gnat.

Joe E
 
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