Leaders

[thebassman]

First off...how many of you make your own leaders and how many of you buy the pre-made tapered leaders from Rio, etc?

I currently buy mine from a shop, but I am thinking of starting to make my own. I was wondering what was the recommended formula for making a 9ft 5x and 6x leader since those seem to be the main ones I use.

I would think that making your own would be cheaper in the long run, but I could be mistaken.

 

[CastingAcross]

I just run a straight 9' section of 20lb., moss green Spider Wire.

Just kidding.

I build some from scratch, and use knotless tapered leaders as the butt section of others.

There are lots of resources out there on formulas ou there, both online and in print. I used Joe Humphrey's "On the Trout Stream" when I started.

 

[RCFetter]

I don't make my own leaders but I know some who do and they prefer hand made leaders over the pre-made tapers.

Here's a recent thread:

Leader Kits

 

[Bamboozle]

I tie my own knotted leaders for bass fishing and some trout fishing. I've been doing it for years and it has several advantages over buying knotted leaders:

They are cheaper.

You have the ability to easily tweak formulas to your needs. For example, proportionally downsizing a particular formula to make a shorter version of a leader.

You become an absolute expert at tying the leader connection knot of your choice. For example, I can tie blood knots in my sleep, with one hand tied behind my back...drunk.

Once you get proficient, you can make them just about anywhere. I used to tie mine while watching TV or when camping or during overnights in hotels.

It's fun!

To get started I suggest you check out this website:

http://globalflyfisher.com/fish-better/leadercalc-2016

After that, you need the leader material of your choice (I’m not a fan of kits because I like different stuff for the butt versus the tippets and different brands for bass versus trout).

Other essentials are a small tape measure, a GOOD SHARP pair of nippers and I suggest investing in an inexpensive micrometer or dial caliper (available at Harbor Freight) or a “tippet gauge” that will allow you to accurately measure the leader material diameter because sometimes, the stated diameter is wrong.

Being off a thousandth or two can make a huge difference in taper and knot strength.

A small notebook (or your smart phone) to record formulas, variations, what works, etc. also helps.

Small adhesive labels to attach to the completed leader to record what it is and/or small Ziploc bags you can mark and store them in.

Unless you use finger cots or gloves, expect to get sore spots, maybe blisters and eventually callus on your fingers from drawing up lots of knots but after a while, you won’t notice it.

I definitely recommend wearing finger cots or gloves when making saltwater, bass leaders and the butt sections of trout leaders. The heavy mono or fluorocarbon can really hurt your fingers because of the extra pulling required to draw up the knots in the fatter & stiffer material.

Good luck!!

 

[ryguyfi]

I've messed around with building leaders in the past. They're not perfect but they work. Nothing too complicated for bass, and a few simple nymphing leaders. Now for dries, I use nothing but furled leaders. It's night and day how much of a difference it makes IMO. Check these guys out for some good leaders to try at a very reasonable price.

https://www.clearstreamflyfishing.com/collections/all

 

[fritz]

I mostly tie my own. Never compared the cost so don't know if it is cheaper. Just some fun things to play with and get better at tying blood knots at the same time. There are many formulas out there. I started with Bob Clouser formulas. He had some formulas for both bass and trout. Like Bam said, you can adjust and play around to find something you like. And tying knots in the field to add 6X to a 5X tippet for example becomes easier. Well, at least sometimes.

 

[boychick]

For bass, I tend to buy knottless leaders, usually 9' 2x. For trout, I tie them using a modified Harvey slack leader formula, usually in 4x, and 5x. The 5x can be extended to 6x or 7x as needed by cutting back the tippet and adding a new sections. I normally put a tippet ring in between the body of the leader and the tippet. I normally use 30" of tippet. Not sure If this creates any savings. I like the ability to adjust the leader, and I think hand built leaders generate a little more slack in the leader which extends the drag free drift with dry flies. The only drawback is the number of knots (read weak points), I lost a trophy on the west branch of Delaware b/c a knot broke mid leader. I doubt the leader would have broken there had it been knotless. That said, I'm sticking with the hand tied leaders.

 

[AMFish]

Thanks for the tip ryguyfi on a source for furled leaders at a great price. I started using furled leaders and really like them, but wasn't wild about the prices from other suppliers.

 

[ryansheehan]

I still haven't tried a furled leader, I'm resistant to change. A buddy of mine gave me one 3 years ago, it's sitting in the bottom of my gear bag. I guess I should atleast try it, but I'm a creature of habit.

 

[mattofcarlisle]

Been tying my own for the past decade using the Leadercalc spreadsheet. I use Harvey's formula the most, occasionally tweaking it to place a little sighter material in the mix. Having the sighter in the usual 2 or 3x location allows me to use it for drys and nymphing.

I use the Dennison Blood Knot tool to tie all my knots - it makes it quick and painless, as I've lost some dexterity in my fingers.

 

[Van_Cleaver]

I mostly buy Cabelas 4 packs when they are on sale; typically 7.5' 3 or 4x, then I add tippet to them since I rarely fish heavier than 5x. I like the Orvis Mirage for the tippet, but I'll use what I have.