Fly Line

[ryansheehan]

So I replace my lines every spring as they take a beating over the winter. I have a line that has been used 4 or 5 times that has a large crack in it. I took it back to the store and the gentleman told me to clip off the end and just use a leader loop and nail knot it to the line. So I have a couple questions, first if I do that won't the line sink? Second the line is thicker at the loop which I assume adds more weight is not going to cast the same? I have used these lines for a number of years and understand they crack after many uses but 5 trips is crazy for a $100 line. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Here is a pic so you can see the thicker part of the line at the loop.

 

[redietz]

You can seal the cut-off end with Pliobond or similar. That will take care of any sinking issues.

I doubt you'll notice any difference in the way it casts.

Also, you can create a loop in the end by doubling it over and whip finishing it shut. I usually cut the part I'm doubling over on a diagonal to create a taper half an inch long or so. Coat with pliobond before whip finishing, and then coat the thread afterwards. Of course, the whip finish should extend slightly past the loop.

It does seem like 5 trips is too soon to be cracking on its own, but it only takes stepping on the line once with studded boots to break it.

I buy double taper lines for a reason!

 

[PALongbow]

Call the manufacturer. They will more than likely replace it for free upon inspection. A line should not crack after a handful of uses.

Ron

 

[ryansheehan]

I took it to the manufacturer/store and that's what they told me to do. They said nothing about sealing the line, just that cutting it wouldn't be an issue. I will google pliobond as I have no idea what it is or where to find it.

 

[salvelinusfontinalis]

Who is the manufacturer?
The lines I've used had no issue replacing a defective line.

 

[ryansheehan]

I'd rather not say on a public forum, they have always treated me well. Just going to cut it off and seal it.

 

[salvelinusfontinalis]

Understandable.
I use Cortland and Orvis lines. Rarely do I have an issue but when I have they replaced them immediately without question. Leaning towards Cortland as my favorite.

I've been using the RIO smallmouth line for a year now. I like it too.

 

[Number6]

Here are some videos on welding/repairing fly lines. I hope they might be of some help.
http://www.hooked4life.ca/h4l/video_gallery/welding_videos/welding_videos.html

 

[ThePharmacist]

I sent one back to Rio that cracked after only a few outings and they replaced it.

 

[moon1284]

Tie a nail knot and put a little bit of aqua seal over the knot to sell it. Much better than a loop connection imo.

 

[outsider]

salvelinusfontinalis wrote:
Understandable.
I use Cortland and Orvis lines. Rarely do I have an issue but when I have they replaced them immediately without question. Leaning towards Cortland as my favorite.

I've been using the RIO smallmouth line for a year now. I like it too.

I have used Cortland 444SL lines almost exclusively for the past 30+ years. Never found a reason to switch. However, I bought a line from Jack Mickievicz last year and I really like it. He imports them to his specs., and for thirty some $ I am impressed. It is a very supple line which fits my slower rods well.

 

[dano]

So I have a couple questions, first if I do that won't the line sink?

Second the line is thicker at the loop which I assume adds more weight is not going to cast the same?

First is to seal the end with anything waterproof and durable. I use Z-ment.

Second, your line will (or should) lay out better without that bulky welded loop which should also aid in presentation.

Lines tend to form cracks behind those welded loops because of the constant hinging caused by the extra mass where you don't want extra mass.

 

[shakey]

i have some of the same crystal river lines that i paid $6 apiece for still going strong after six years.

but by all means,don't out the $100 line manufacturer

 

[ryansheehan]

So I cut, sealed the line and nail knotted a leader to it. I haven't had it out yet but I hope you're right Dano. I have to admit I do like the look of a more streamlined connection. As far as not outing the store/manufacturer I have alot of their gear and have always been treated well, going to let this one slide. Shakey, your six year old, six dollar line that is going strong, I just can't compete can't compete with. Do you have some secret I'm missing on line care? My lines look brutal within a year, especially when winter comes and guide ice is an every trip thing.

 

[RLeep2]

I'm pretty sure the Crystal River lines are manufactured in Guelph, Ontario by an outfit called Aquanova. At least this was their name at one time. They make a lot of the budget or low end lines for various folks.

There are better tapers and more technically configured lines out there, but few, in my experience anyway, that are more durable. You could run an Aquanova line over with a set of studded snow tires and it would still cast just fine. I have a WF5F Aquanova I bought at a Wal-Mart in Manchester, Iowa in about 2003. It's seen at least 100 hours use a year ever since and is just now starting to crack.

They are good, practical, utilitarian fly lines. The problem has always been finding them. So far as I know, they do not sell direct and you have to shop around and find the "Made In Canada" on the box to know for sure.

Ah, here they are, under yet another alias/name:

http://www.flyline.net/aquanova

 

[shakey]

ryansheehan wrote:
Shakey, your six year old, six dollar line that is going strong, I just can't compete can't compete with. Do you have some secret I'm missing on line care? My lines look brutal within a year, especially when winter comes and guide ice is an every trip thing.

i do wash lines with dish washing liquid and let them dry thoroughly.i do this two or three times a year.

i often dress the first 20 feet and double coat a rod length with albolene.

sometimes,when i am dressing my silk lines,i will put some red tin mucilin on my crystal river lines too.

 

[ryansheehan]

Yeah I take similar care, payette paste is what I use to keep it floating though. I used the line on Saturday and it worked great, no issues with sinking or casting. I kind of like the slimmer nail knot but man if I have to replace a leader on the river that will be a pain. I can't think of the last time I did that but now I'm sure it will happen.

 

[moon1284]

Not that bad to replace on the river, just seal it after you're done fishing. If you're that worried, tie a perfection loop at the end of your thickest ladder section (the one nail knotted to the fly line).

I have broke more fish off at the welded loop than times I've had to tie a nail knot on the river.

 

[ryansheehan]

Not worried about the knot, just thinking about resealing it. I do have some uv aquaseal that I take with me, so could do that in a pinch. I thought about nail knotting a leader loop to the fly line but I like the slimmer look the other way. Like you said though I could always seal it later.

 

[jifigz]

I fish a lot, buy cheap lines, don't take care of them, and have never really had one fail. I had a welded loop come off after a lot of use and a few years but I just tied a perfection loop, sealed with super glue, and still used it. That line is still stored away for some future use. Sounds like you had bad luck. Seriously Cortland 444 is expensive line to me, I have fished as cheap as Cortland Fairplay, but I generally buy Air-Cel and it always surprises me how awesome it is for how little money.