Florida Keys report

trevor

trevor

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Joined
Aug 25, 2010
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75
For two weeks over Christmas vacation, I was fortunate enough to make it down to Marathon with my family for some vacation time. I headed down with hopes of fly casting to bonefish, tarpon, and blackfin tuna, but it turned out quite differently.

We have a 21 foot Carolina Skiff that we towed down, and a suburban full of all kinds of fishing equipment, both fly and conventional tackle. After a 24 hour straight through drive, we arrived in the house we had rented right on a canal in Key Colony Beach.

The first day, we headed back into some serious mangroves, until we came to a huge lagoon type thing, full of mullet. I cast vegetation flies to them for some hours, only catching the odd mangrove snapper. We looked around and made some casts to Barracuda, but had no luck.

After this experience inshore, we decided to head to the patch reefs for some better fishing. It isn't well suited to fly fishing, since I only had floating lines, so we used light spinning gear. We caught lots of small groupers, snappers, and other bottom fish.

We fished these patch reefs a lot, always doing very well. One day we were heading in, and spotted a school of Jack Crevalle cruising just under the surface. I jumped for my brand new 9 weight (Christmas present), tied on a clouser minnow, and proceeded to fire off some of the worst casts ever seen. It didn't help that I suck at casting to begin with, but the relentless winds and that big old 9 weight made for some truly pathetic casts. Mostly I just tangled the fly around myself, the rod, or a cleat, but every once and a while I would get off a good cast, and the Jacks were voracious unlike anything I have ever seen. I had really been wanting to catch a Jack, so when I finally connected on one it was awesome. The rod was bent in half, and what a fight it was. After releasing it, we continued to slowly motor around the area, looking for more. I tied on a popper in hopes of drawing even cooler strikes, and it worked, as I eventually landed another feisty jack. It was getting late, so we headed in.

Then it was pretty much more of the same patch reef fishing, because we never found the jacks again. I did manage to use some weighted shrimp imitations and catch yellowtail snapper, mangrove snapper, grunt, puffer fish, leather-jackets, and hooked a grouper. It was funny just how quickly the grouper got stuck, and I figured it was a decent fish.... and I wasn't loosing another fly. So I put on my goggles and fins and dove down and un-snagged him. The thing was maybe 12 inches, a little red grouper wrapped up in some weeds.

This whole time, we were looking forward to making it farther offshore for some dolphin action, but the winds never calmed enough. We went snorkeling and lobstering a few days, which was very sweet, but I found time for fishing every day of the trip but the last.

I started night fishing the canal with ultralight rods for catfish, and that was a good time. My sister came down to do it one night, so we rigged up three rods with circle hooks and shrimp: two ultralights, one medium baitcasting rig. She spotted the bites on the baitcaster, so I hooked the fish and handed it off. This thing was ripping some serious drag off, so let her know it was a good fish and she needed to be gentle. What a surprise when I looked into the net and found a nice redfish looking back at me! A fish I have always wanted to catch, and a nice one at that. She was thrilled, though, and it was a blast.

I did eventually catch some cuda on the fly, although they were only around 18 inches. But it's another species on the list.


One day it was very windy, so we went out our canal about 400 yards and anchored on some rocky bottom. We caught some nice triggers and hogfish, but then my dad hooked something that set his drag screaming. After a long fight, he boated a small permit. I was quite jealous. Another 20 minutes passed, and he hooked another fighter, but this was an even better fish. Another, bigger, permit. We snapped a picture and released it. I am still shocked at the fight of such a small fish.

While we were anchored up, some tarpon started rolling 30 yards from the boat. I made some casts with all three tarpon flies I own, but to no luck. Actually, barely any of my casts made it to the tarpon, since I suck casting.

One final recommendation. The 9 weight reel my dad bought me was an Orvis Access V. After a few days, the drag became super jerky. We called Orvis, and they said bring it up to our shop, and they would swap it out. So we made the drive early one morning to the Orvis shop in Key Largo. It was super nice, and I can honestly say I have never met a more professional, helpful person than the lady that was there helping us. She let us use their line machine, since she didn't want us to have to wait for the department manager to get there. Once we had spooled up the new reel, she asked if there was anything else she could help with, and I said that we should be good. She told me to go over and pick out some flies, on Orvis. I said it was OK, but she insisted. I have been wanting to learn to tie flies for a long time, so my dad found a really nice kit there he wanted to buy me. I originally cost $169, but she gave it to us for $105. She was so nice and friendly, just a great experience. So I really recommend Orvis customer service.
 
And I had a few neat pictures, but can't get them to upload.
 
Trevor, Great report!
Regarding the pics - did you downsize 'em before trying to upload?

Your report mirrors many trips I've taken to the Keys - esp in the colder months. Fly fishing for Keys glamour fish is very tough under the best circumstances but windy, winter weather makes it even harder. On the other hand, spin gear and some bait will usually save the day.
Forget about the dime-a-dozen videos of guys wading white sand flats and catching bonefish on every cast using FF gear. These videos are filmed in the Bahamas. The Keys are a very different story. Nevertheless, if you keep an open mind and set aside the fly rod you can have a great time.

Jacks are blast. :)

And kudos to Orvis.
 
I didn't exactly expect to catch a bonefish, but it would have been nice.

I guess I just needed to resize the pictures, thanks for the tip.
 

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Great report and great vacation...is the second to last fish a pompano or a permit...hard for me to tell when they are juvenile.
 
It's definitely a permit.
One way to tell is the very long dorsal, which is similar shaped but shorter on pompano. The tail lobes are also longer on permit. The long dorsals tend to shorten as a permit ages and very large, old permit have dorsals much the same dimensions as a pompano. The permit in the lower Caribbean seem to hold their long dorsals later in their lives than the Keys fish (for some reason).
 
Attaboy, Trevor.
Hooked for life.
Now imagine a 35 pound jack or a 25 pound permit and what it would do to your 9wt...
It's scary when you start to think of a 9wt as your light rod...
 
headed down to the keys this summer. complete saltwater newbie, novice tier, with a seven weight. im stuck with a group, so will be fishing only from shore, but hope for any type of fish. my last tangle with a bonefish ended with a newly expanded vocabulary, and a disfunctinal fly, if you get my meaning. but i just want to catch fish. any help on patterns? (ill be there in mid august) and do i need any other gear? ( my dads got an old 10 wt. from jersey coast fishin.)
 
Neal,
Fly fishing for glamor species in the Keys from shore is very tough. In August, you'll likely do best in the early am and evening. A 10Wt is fine and will allow you to tangle with some bigger critters like jacks, sharks, or bridge cudas. If you're limited to fishing from shore, I'd highly recommend taking some spin gear and fishing bait from the bridges. You can have a ball catching snappers, cudas, groupers, sharks, snook, speckled trout and possibly even tarpon (August isn't prime time for tarpon) from bridges and the channels under them. As for flies, have some basic crab flies and bonefish stuff like Borski Sliders etc. Have a couple cuda flies too with wire bite tippets.
If you're in the upper/middle Keys and would like to wade for bones on a fly, I'd recommend Long Key State park. I got my first fly rod bonefish there and the flats are hard sand/turtle grass and wadeable (most of the Keys cannot be waded - too soft) and there is good public access. LKSP is in the upper/middle Keys down Rt 1 from Islamorada heading toward Marathon.
 
actually goin with boyscouts. and will be stuck on a single small deserted island.
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&q=big%20munson%20key&gs_sm=c&gs_upl=1314l3349l0l6584l10l7l0l3l3l0l232l1203l0.5.2l10l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&biw=1920&bih=935&wrapid=tlif132657666875210&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=il
is the link for a map. im not sure i posted it right though. it looks as if there are reefs around the island and i will suposedly be trolling for sportfish. it looks like there will not be much free time other than the am and pm around sun up and sundown. thats about it. any fly suiggestions?
 
scratch that, it posts to the wrong spot, but just look it up.
 
Big Munson Key? I'm not familiar with the place.

Googled it and it's in the lower Keys - what folks down there refer to as "oceanside" meaning it borders the southern edge of the islands facing the reef. From what I could see, it does indeed look better for boat fishing and is probably only minutes from the main reef. That would be big fish territory, in other words: sails, dolphin, kings, cobia etc (and would explain the trolling from a boat part). There are some FFing opportunities but you would need to be clear to the boat captain/guide that you wish to fly fish.

For evenings around the shoreline: there is probably some accessible beach and maybe wadeable flats (flats on the oceanside of the Keys tend to be a bit friendlier to waders and not so soft). "Beaches" in the Keys don't look like your traditional Atlantic beach with surf and waves but rather are more like the shoreline of a lake. You could scout for bonefish and permit on these flats or along the beaches. For the beach, you want to time it to coincide with high tide as this is when bonefish cruise right along the water's edge in the Keys. If there are some wrecks, pilings, structure etc, use small bonefish flies like a Crazy Charlie or a plain old Wooly Bugger and you can probably catch some snappers. If they won't bite - chum 'em with some shrimp.
Shrimp can be your best friend in the Keys - even when fly fishing. :)
 
good stuff. looks like there is a salt pond in the middle if you look via satelite. could there be anything in there?
 
10 wt is a 1 peice rod. can't take it.
 
Yep, if there's a channel connecting to the sea. My guess would be the pond is probably choked all around with mangroves meaning you'd need a boat to fish it (mangroves are extremely dense - much like rhododendron) - great for a kayak. The pond should have snappers - possibly some bigger critters if there is some depth. Again, the way to find out is to toss some shrimp along the edges and see what comes out.
 
Went back and looked a bit closer. Not sure about the pond but there appears to be some very nice looking flats on the west end and the north east side of the island. It's a small island. If you can get a hold of a kayak you'll have a blast exploring the outer edge. The interior is wild - looks like solid mangroves. Don't forget bug repellant. :)

When you study the aerials, flats that appear white are usually straight sand or mixed sand/grass - there's not a lot of this in the Keys as the flats are mostly grass. Sand is more likely to be wadeable and it's much easier to see cruising fish over sand than grass. Looks promising!

Take your 7WT. It's on the light side for bonefish but what the heck. You should have 100 yards of backing for bones, jacks or permit. A regular 7WT with trout reel is perfect for snappers and small cudas which are the most numerous fish you'll encounter. Give your gear a good cleaning when you're done as saltwater will make quick work of the finish on many trout reels.

If you do wade, do the "stingray shuffle" - ie drag your feet so that you kick a buried ray rather than pinning him. Rays are everywhere in the Keys and are generally docile. If steeped on, though, they will nail you. Never happened to me but I've seen the effects. You'll get morphine from an IV if a ray nails you. Shuffle your feet.
 
i have the gear you have explained, but will not be able to get a kayak. as to the mangroves- with my climbing ability and youth, anything is possible! thanks for the advice, i'm gonna head for the vice soon!
 
Neat trip.

FL highly unlikely for me this year.
 
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