Clinch vs Improved Clinch Knot?

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Canoetripper

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Is the improved clinch knot better or is a well tied, and properly seated clinch knot, just as good?

Valid question or not?

This Covid 19 pandemic is driving all of us nuts. I practice tying knots all the time. I really need to practice my fly casting but will probably have to wait until Spring to get some professional instruction.

I am getting really good at tying the Lefty Kreh non-slip loop knot which is much more difficult to tie than the clinch/improved clinch knot. The mitten sissor clamps are a great tool. They are great for making hooks barbless, and tying the non-slip loop knot.

I am a tippet ring guy so I should be good with what I know; non-slip loop knot, trilene knot, clinch knots.

I just bought a new blood knot tying tool and have the time on my hands to get better at the surgeons knots as well.

Any and all feed back is greatly appreciated.

I know that I am going to spend some $ on fly casting lessons. I really want to get much better at fly fishing than I am right now.

The guide who instructed me on euro-nymph fishing tied all of the nymphs from tippet ring to fly with a simple clinch knot.

I work in the automotive industry and have always been frustrated at how the Germans over engineer and complicate their vehicles. I am probably just as guilty as I try my best to improve as a fly fisherman.

 
I'm a trilene knot guy. If for some reason I have issues getting the tippet back through the eye a second time I will go with a clinch knot. I don't like the way an improved clinch closes especially with light tippet. I feel like it grinds some even when wet or in the stream.
 
I use the regular clinch. Rarely does the knot break. That said, you have to get enough wraps in to keep it from slipping, and I test every time, sometimes I tie a bad one and have to retie.

What I will say is I use mono 90% of the time. It's better than fluoro for me outside of a few situations. When I do use fluoro I have more issues with knot slippage and sometimes do need to add the extra step of the improved clinch knot.
 
Thanks you for the replies. I have no experience yet with fluoro but probably will soon experiment as I gain more experience with euro nymph fishing.

I would much rather lose a trout because of a barbless hook than because of poor knot tying. It is easier and less expensive to figure this out with mono than fluoro.

I know my limitations and start at the bottom. Get good at something and then upgrade from there. I think that a 9' 7 wt. will help me with my wooly buggers.

If I go that route, I will start with a basic Orvis Clearwater outfit and upgrade from there.

 
Regular clinch for me too with & without fluoro.

I also tie blood knots which are two clinch knots back to back. If they don't have to be "improved," I don't see why the tippet to hook eye version does....
 
I tie the regular cinch almost without looking. In fact when wrapping it I don't look and it frustrates onlookers (my sons). If I don't like the line (some floors make me nervous) I use the improved. I use lube for anything 8lbs and over as I've had them spring apart with heavy line. When using hooks with large eyes and for all lures I use the Polomar. Someday I might learn the Trilene as it is very sensible but old habit die hard and I'm afraid I'd work at it a long time until I could tie the Trilene without looking.
 
Baron wrote:
I tie the regular cinch almost without looking. In fact when wrapping it I don't look and it frustrates onlookers (my sons). If I don't like the line (some floors make me nervous) I use the improved. I use lube for anything 8lbs and over as I've had them spring apart with heavy line. When using hooks with large eyes and for all lures I use the Polomar. Someday I might learn the Trilene as it is very sensible but old habit die hard and I'm afraid I'd work at it a long time until I could tie the Trilene without looking.

Baron, do you mean you only wet the knot if the line is greater than 8 lb test? I go the other way, the lighter the tippet the wetter it gets, 6x and 7x get put in the stream when tightening (if possible). I figure some friction on 10 lb test is way less of an issue than on 2 lb.
 
I figure it this way. I've never had a small line untie itself but have with larger line. I'm assuming it is springiness that causes it. Who knows.

I used to sell to Burke Garden Center and had a Nice and Nefew living there. Nice area.
 
Baron wrote:
I figure it this way. I've never had a small line untie itself but have with larger line. I'm assuming it is springiness that causes it. Who knows.

I used to sell to Burke Garden Center and had a Nice and Nefew living there. Nice area.

I visit there often, it's where we get our Christmas tree. We moved to Burke when I was a kid and been here ever since. My boys will go to the same high school I went to.

I always thought you lubricated knots to decrease friction. The heat will burn or cut the line making the knot weaker.
 
Canoetripper, I used the Clinch and other knots for many years and all worked fine. Then I discovered the Davy Knot and have used it for the past 4-5 years. It is very easy to tie, strong and as a bonus, it's a very small knot. Hope to meet up with you at the Mile one day and we can compare notes.
 
pcray1231 wrote:
I use the regular clinch. Rarely does the knot break. That said, you have to get enough wraps in to keep it from slipping, and I test every time, sometimes I tie a bad one and have to retie.

What I will say is I use mono 90% of the time. It's better than fluoro for me outside of a few situations. When I do use fluoro I have more issues with knot slippage and sometimes do need to add the extra step of the improved clinch knot.

I agree with Pat, regular clinch, but... check it every time. Retie if needed.
 
Regular clinch knot. If you wet line and pull it tight it works fine. I agree, why complicate it. Simple surgeon knot for tying line together. Blood knot for leader to fly line.
 
Regular clinch, never improved. Also, non-slip mono loop for streamers. I will occasionally go to a Davy knot, but I'm not as practiced at that one so it fails the pull test more often for me.

I'm starting to play with uni knots now. They should be very strong, but harder to tie (esp. with cold fingers!).
 
I use a Uni for pretty much every fly to leader or line to lure situation. I've never been a fan of the improved clinch although there was a time when it was my primary knot. I have anecdotal evidence of a line-weakening hinge effect with the improved clinch when doing a herky-jerky retrieve with minnow lures like Rapalas and Rebels, etc. I had quite a few fail right at the top of the knot and as soon as I switched to the Uni, this didn't happen any more. I understand this seems weird, but like I say, it is anecdotal.

The only time I will use a straight clinch knot is when using that knottable wire that Rio and others make. I trust it in situations like this. Otherwise, no..
 
I use both the clinch and improved clinch knot, but mostly just the clinch and like fly-swatter I use what is called a rapala knot (non-slip loop knot) for streamers and sometime with fishing with nymphs.
 
I second the Trilene knot (twice though the eye cinch knot, do not improve it), always in salt water, anytime your tying a relatively thin line though a large hook eye such as streamers.

Mark C
 
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