Bamboo

[Nckr624]

My great uncle recently passed and left me his Orvis Battenkill rod that he bought new in the 60s. From what I understand this is a 7 weight and recommended for use with double taper (HCH7). I’ve read conflicting info on whether to use a #6 or #7 line and wondered if anyone could offer me some advice. Thanks in advance.

 

[JGR]

You have the 13/64-ferrule, medium action taper. It was Orvis' most popular model for many years and was marketed as a general purpose fly rod for trout, panfish and bass.

I fish mine with a DT7. I tried it with a DT6 but it doesn't load the rod well at normal fishing distances. There're no rules though, try both and use the line you prefer.

You can learn more on my database: https://www.antiquerodandreels.com/databases/orvisdb

 

[redietz]

Many people will use a line a weight or two under what Orvis recommended on their cane rods, in part because the old designations (e.g HCH) were a measure of diameter and as such don't exactly line up with the new designation (7) and partly because present day anglers are a bit more used to a rod that doesn't bend as deeply. In my experience with Orvis rods, it depends on the individual rod. I have two Midges, both supposedly 5 weight. One casts better with a 5 and the other with 4 (in my hands.) As JGR suggested, try both a 6 and a 7 and see what you like. You may even find that a half weight line works better.

 

[Canoetripper]

I had my grandfather's Orvis Battenkill bamboo fly rod reconditioned by Art Weiler. According to Orvis, the rod was built in 1964 and is a 6 wt. Art recommended a 5 wt. DT fly line.

 

[redietz]

I had my grandfather's Orvis Battenkill bamboo fly rod reconditioned by Art Weiler. According to Orvis, the rod was built in 1964 and is a 6 wt. Art recommended a 5 wt. DT fly line.

The name "Battenkill" referred to the grade of rod: it had two tips as opposed to the Madison which had one. It was made in various lengths and weights.

 

[JGR]

If you guys contact me through database E-mail (link below), I'll send you scans from the catalog the rods appeared in and other information.

I need the serial number and a description of the rod. Information off the label on the tube is best, but at least the length and number of sections not including extra tips.

I can do this for any forum member.

 

[Bamboozle]

My great uncle recently passed and left me his Orvis Battenkill rod that he bought new in the 60s. From what I understand this is a 7 weight and recommended for use with double taper (HCH7). I’ve read conflicting info on whether to use a #6 or #7 line and wondered if anyone could offer me some advice. Thanks in advance.

Nckr624:

Many folks talk about underlining old Orvis rods as if it's a given. I see it most often with eBay sellers hoping to broaden the appeal of their offerings to today's line shy buyers or an attempt at turning the rod into something it never was, and many times never will be.

I own more than a few Orvis bamboo rods from the 1940's through the 1970's including 3wts to 7 weights with a bunch of spinning rods thrown in. I fish every single one happily with the line weight written on the blank and I am far from alone in this practice.

Also keep in mind there WERE plastic fly lines in the 1960's and quite possibly your great uncle used one on this rod and it may have been a 7wt. Orvis continued using the old "letter" line designations for a LONG time, later adding the modern AFTMA line weight equivalents to the blank markings. Whether or not you feel they match up is not an excuse except if you DON'T like what you feel.

It's really no different than comparing what several different manufacturer's call a 7wt or 6wt line today.

Like others, my suggestion to you is to try both line weights and see what you like and don't be afraid if it ends up it is a 7 weight. To this I'll add to STAY away from any hybrid tapers or mislabeled (meaning heavy) fly lines like a Rio Gold which will throw off your assessment.

Have fun!

 

[Canoetripper]

My grandfather's Orvis Battenkill is a 7'6". My grandfather and brother broke the other tip way back in 1969.

 

[Bamboozle]

It wouldn't have been the end of the world as a one tip Battenkill because Orvis offered one tip Battenkills and other named rods as less expensive options.

I have a Battenkill grade Flea built in 1976 as a one tip rod that I bought used from a friend around 1980. I sent back to Orvis around 1983 and had a 2nd tip built by Ron White, the same guy who built it originally and I still fish it regularly to this day...

...with the specified 4 weight line.

 

[Canoetripper]

Thanks for the info on the difference between the Battenkill and Madison. I knew that they were different because of the pricing from old Orvis catalogs. I was unaware of the different tips. I am pretty sure that the bamboo fly rods that Art Weiler makes have two tips.

 

[Bamboozle]

Art typically makes "reproductions" of well known tapers as do many bamboo builders today. As such he usually offers two tip rods.

 

[shakey]

If you have a six ,and/or a seven , try them!!

They’re both great versatile weights

 

[shakey]

If you don’t have a six or a seven weight line ,and live near Philly, you can use one of mine .

 

[PennKev]

Nckr624:

Many folks talk about underlining old Orvis rods as if it's a given. I see it most often with eBay sellers hoping to broaden the appeal of their offerings to today's line shy buyers or an attempt at turning the rod into something it never was, and many times never will be.

I own more than a few Orvis bamboo rods from the 1940's through the 1970's including 3wts to 7 weights with a bunch of spinning rods thrown in. I fish every single one happily with the line weight written on the blank and I am far from alone in this practice.

Also keep in mind there WERE plastic fly lines in the 1960's and quite possibly your great uncle used one on this rod and it may have been a 7wt. Orvis continued using the old "letter" line designations for a LONG time, later adding the modern AFTMA line weight equivalents to the blank markings. Whether or not you feel they match up is not an excuse except if you DON'T like what you feel.

It's really no different than comparing what several different manufacturer's call a 7wt or 6wt line today.

Like others, my suggestion to you is to try both line weights and see what you like and don't be afraid if it ends up it is a 7 weight. To this I'll add to STAY away from any hybrid tapers or mislabeled (meaning heavy) fly lines like a Rio Gold which will throw off your assessment.

Have fun!

This advice should be applied across ALL old cane rods, not just Orvis. Too many are willing to sacrifice casting performance for the sake of being able to say they use a 4 or 5wt line over a 6 or 7wt.

Use what works bets! In the case of old rods (cane and glass) the rods were designed and built in a time when heavier lines were the norm. Try the heavier line and don't be afraid to fish with it if that is what works best on a particular rod. On a similar note, it would do some folks good to see the advantages of fishing with a heavier fly line in situation where they had not considered it before.

 

[StreamBottom]

My grandfather's Orvis Battenkill is a 7'6". My grandfather and brother broke the other tip way back in 1969.

Art typically makes "reproductions" of well known tapers as do many bamboo builders today. As such he usually offers two tip rods.

I have two of Art’s rods, both Payne reproductions and love to fish both of them.
He did an excellent job on the tapers.

Unfortunately, I think Art has retired from building rods??

I also have a Battenkill rated as a 6 and I use a 6wt on it, which I prefer over a 5.

IMO the rod pretty much casts itself with the 6.

(I also love the fact that my Batternkill and I share the same birth year, 1968)

 

[lestrout]

I have two of Art’s rods, both Payne reproductions and love to fish both of them.
He did an excellent job on the tapers.

Unfortunately, I think Art has retired from building rods??

Yo Strea - never fear. Art and his wife were running their booth at the Edison Show. They may come to the Lancaster Show too. Art did retire a few years ago from teaching, and they moved to the Poconos from Jersey. But he stepped up his rod building when he came to PA, both in quantity as well as quality. The only issue I have with Art's fine rods are which one to get next. He also has some wonderful soft-water glass sticks (named Willow).

 

[StreamBottom]

Yo Strea - never fear. Art and his wife were running their booth at the Edison Show. They may come to the Lancaster Show too. Art did retire a few years ago from teaching, and they moved to the Poconos from Jersey. But he stepped up his rod building when he came to PA, both in quantity as well as quality. The only issue I have with Art's fine rods are which one to get next. He also has some wonderful soft-water glass sticks (named Willow).

That's good news indeed!! I feel your pain, that is an issue, which one his rods is next.
Coldwater Collectables had one of his rods for sale, a Payne 202h, I missed the boat on...

Willow huh? Well, if that's not a sign. My setter is named Willow.

I'll have to check in with him.

Thanks for the update.

 

[DomR]

Coldwater Collectables had one of his rods for sale, a Payne 202h, I missed the boat on...

Me too!