Tips on choosing dry fly hackle

[FrequentTyer]

A question came up on another forum regarding the quality of Whiting intro packs (4 half capes for about $65) and if they provided a good starting point for a new tyer. I had bought one of these last year out of despiration when I was tying at a show and needed some grizzly hackle. My impression was that it was okay quality, but I didn't think it was the right thing for a beginner and I couldn't put my finger on why. So I decided to do a comparison and thought that the results were interesting enough that some of you might be interested in seeing this and might want to add what you look for when buying a dry fly cape (or saddle if you must). Below is the picture and description copied from my other post:

"The picture below shows 2 #14 feathers plucked off 2 capes. I pulled the first #14s that I found. On the left is a feather from the Whiting intro pack, and on the right is a feather from a full commercial grade cape (non-Whiting) that cost about $30 this past November. Things to notice, the left side has significantly more fluff at the bottom that has to be stripped off for dry fly use, has a lower barb count and thicker barbs, and an overall shorter useful length. While these points make it a less desirable feather, all in all, it is okay and I can tie a good dry fly with this feather. But also, notice the shaft of the feathers. The left side shaft is thicker, which will make it harder to wrap and more difficult to lay in close wraps. Also notice that the right hand side of the feather on the left is lifting from the surface. this is because there is a twist in the shaft that will have to be compensated for as it is wound. These issues, in my opinion, are significant for the beginner."

 

[Fishidiot]

Interesting!

 

[dryflyguy]

I look for hackles that have little or no webbing between the barbules.
Also the density - or number of barbules per hackle - can be different. Have seen some hackles that were pretty sparse in the regard.
And stiffness of the barbules is better for floating flies

 

[afishinado]

Great assessment of those feathers. Each cape is unique. You really have to examine each one and evaluate it as FT did. Sometimes a bargain isn't really a bargain at all, or vice versa, a more expensive cape is not really worth the price you pay.

 

[blueheron]

Charlie Collins gave a detailed talk about the twist phenomenon and related that when found as a trait in his breeding stock it took, I think six or seven years to breed out and a lot of dead chickens. He ties himself and that is the level of care given his necks, I don't use any others for my dry flies.

 

[eunanhendron]

Completely agree with this assessment. I bought the intro pack just for the selection of colors and value.

I also have some whiting herbert half saddles, and the first thing i notices was the thicker stem and less dense hackles on the 'ungraded' intro capes.

The intros are ok, but if you like quality stuff, i'd certainly invest in the better hackles, either graded whiting.metz/collins or others.

I actually think i'm gonna sell the intro pack i bought.

 

[franklin]

blueheron wrote:
Charlie Collins gave a detailed talk about the twist phenomenon and related that when found as a trait in his breeding stock it took, I think six or seven years to breed out and a lot of dead chickens. He ties himself and that is the level of care given his necks, I don't use any others for my dry flies.

And with the show coming up later this month Charlie will be there with a large stock. Good time to stop by his booth and get some great deals along with some help selecting best hackle for your needs.

 

[lv2nymph]

That man has got quite a bit of my money, probably about to get some more. :roll:

 

[FrequentTyer]

Just don't run in and bother Charlie as soon as the doors open. Go look at something else and let me warm him up for you.

 

[lv2nymph]

^^^Honestly, I was figuring on handling that myself. :-D ^^^